Archive for the ‘Articles’ Category

Test Drive the ‘64

Friday, December 30th, 2005

Yesterday the weather here in Los Angeles was exceptionally clear so I took the ‘64 Malibu out for a spirited drive through the Angeles National Forest. The route that I took started at the Angeles Crest Highway exit from teh 210 freeway in La Canada and ended at Highway 14 in Palmdale, California. On the way back on the 14 I pulled off at the Vasquez Rocks Nature Park and snapped some photographs.

The Malibu is working well and the Hotrods to Hell suspension and GMPP engine seem pretty well dialed in. I hope to get the car on the strip at LACR in the next couple fo weeks and find out what sort of 1/4 mile times the zz383 is capable of. I drove the car on the 2004 Power Tour, but it has undergone an extensive rebuld since that time.

Ford Powered Camaro

Saturday, December 24th, 2005

In keeping with the hybrid motif of my last post here is a horse of a different color. A Chevrolet Camaro, seen by many as the ideal expression of a ponycar, wearing a blue oval on its valve covers.







A bit of imformation about the engine from the owner’s website:

Ford Motorsport R302 Block, 2.83″ Sonny Bryant Billet Racing Crank, Carrillo Rods, JE Dished Pistons, Canton Dry Sump Oil Pan, Raceline 3 stage oil pump, CompCams Timing Gear & Chain, CompCams 35-306-8 Blower/Computer Cam (284/290-.533/.544-LC114), AFR185 Heads, 1.72 Roller Rockers, CompCams Solid Roller Lifters, Ported Lower GT40 Intake with Custom Upper Intake, Twin 55mm throttle bodies, Vortech Fuel rails, Holley 50# Injectors, Accel DFI GenVII Fuel Injection System.

(Yes, FORD!) I already had it! Was going into a ‘93 Mustang. Sold it for this ‘68 Camaro. Engine is worth to much to let it go. This ought to get the shit stirring. There is a benefit! I can move it back farther for better weight distribution. :)

Here is a link to the builder’s website: Ron’s 68 Camaro RS/x

Nissan Powered Mustang

Monday, December 12th, 2005

I don’t know why, and I don’t know where, but this Ford Mustang is a hybrid car of a different color. The rumor that accompanied the pictures was that the car is from the Fast and Furious 3, but I have zero confirmation on that rumor.

Update: I have confirmation that this is indeed a car built for the Fast and Furious 3.

RB25 Mustang

RB25 Mustang

This Mustang is powered by a Nissan RB26. The RB26 engine is originally found in the Nissan Skyline GT-S R32 & R33. It is a short-stroke, iron-block six with one turbo that takes well to modifications. In factory trim the engine produces around 250 Horsepower and is backed by a 6-speed transmission.

Update:
The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift will be hitting theaters on June 16th and this Mustang/Skyline hybrid will be making its appearance on the silver screen. According to information that I have gleamed from various magazine as well as several other websites, the actual RB-26 Mustang was not used for all the action sequences, but rather conventional Ford powered “stunt cars” were used as only a single RB car was built.

The RB car, does actually work. According to testing done by Sport Compact Car in their July 2006 Issue the car puts down a 13.36 @ 109.83, which is just a hair slower then my ZZ383 powered 1964 Malibu. Considering the high trap speed, coupled with the fact that 19″ Volk Racing wheels are hardly optimal for drag racing, I have to give the car some respect.

On the dyno the RB Mustang put out 340.2 RWHP @ 7300 RPM, which is more then a stock RB26DETT, but is far from being anything remarkable.

At the end of the day, this car is a prop for a movie, and much like the Fast and Furious, it can only be enjoyed if they are not taken too seriously.

Not All Drifting Mustangs have Nissan Motors.

RB25 Mustang

RB26 Mustang

A side note, the color of the car appears to be the same Highland Green color as Steve McQueens Mustang GT from the movie Bullit. The engine, however, is a far cry from the 390 cid engine in McQueens Car.

Steve McQueens Mustang Fastback from Bullit
Steve McQueens Mustang Fastback from Bullit

Camaro Concept Drawings

Tuesday, December 6th, 2005

Hot off the Internet Press. Rumor has it that GM is upset about these pictures being out on the Internet, so maybe they are close. These Images are not hosted on the Hot Rod Homepage, nor do I have control over the sites that they are hosted on, so they may not be available for long. If you want to have the images for future referance I recommend saving them to you hard disk.

Update: Spoke with my lawyer, I was advised to not to have the images on my website. I will continue to look for them. When I do find them I will not display them on the Hot Rod Homepage, but I will tell you where to look for them. Seems to me that GM could use all the buzz possible and taking aggressive actions against potential customers and enthusiasts seems to me like a bad move. In fact it seems like the same move that the RIAA and the record companies that they represent took against their customers.

Update Below are the pictures that are making a buzz; the actual pictures that got GM upset.

legendnh2.jpg

legendnh1.jpg

The Switch Pitch TH-400

Friday, December 2nd, 2005

Summary:
The reasoning behind installing an overdrive transmission is running a low rear gearing to get off the line, but still retain manageable RPMs at freeway cruising speeds. This seems like the best of both worlds, but this article will examine some reasons why an overdrive transmission is not always be the best solution.

Traditionally GM overdrive transmissions such as the 700-r4 and the 200-4r were viewed as anemic pieces for gas sipping transportation appliances. The last several years have revealed that these transmissions can be modified to handle significantly more power then in base configurations. A well-built and properly adjusted overdrive transmission should be able to handle around 450 ft/lbs of torque. Is that enough for the engine combinations that people run in their hot rods? In many cases the answer is no and I for one, have been through enough “built” 700-r4s for a lifetime.

So what then is the solution?
The solution is the tried and true TH-400, more specifically the variable-pitch version of the TH-400.

The variable-pitch, or switch-pitch TH-400 is nothing new as it has been around since 1965. Originally found in Buick, Olds, and Cadillac the switch-pitch offers two stall speeds, a low stall and a high stall. Applying a positive 12-volt signal to the appropriate terminal on the transmission case makes the selection of low or high stall. The high stall gives you the advantages of torque multiplication to get off the line with a taller rearend gear and the low stall decreases slippage for cruising or on the big end of the track.

The variable-pitch stator is not the only advantage that the TH-400 holds over its more modern overdrive counterparts. A TH-400 will generally cost less then an overdrive and it can be built to handle some serious horsepower numbers. The TH-700 and TH-200 also require a T.V. cable to be installed and adjusted correctly or serious damage and shifting problems will result, and getting it correct is often harder then it seems at first glance. Another advantage of the TH-400 is a small spread between gears. First lets put some gearing numbers out there for reference:

Gear Ratio Comparisons:

1st 2nd 3rd 4th
TH 400 2.48 1.48 1.00
TH 700 3.06 1.63 1.00 0.70
TH 200 2.74 1.57 1.0 0.67

It is clear that the two overdrive transmissions in the comparison chart have lower first gear ratios as well as have the advantage of overdrive, but let us look at the numbers that are hidden between these ratios.

Between Gear Gap Comparisons:

1st-2nd 2nd-3rd 3rd-4th
TH 400 1.00 0.48
TH 700 1.43 0.63 0.30
TH 200 1.17 0.57 0.33

Notice the large gaps between gear ratios. The TH-700 has a particularly nasty gap between 1st and 2nd. In fact if you combine the 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd gaps on the TH-400 you get roughly the same gap as the 1st-2nd on the 700-r4. The result of this is that your first gear in the TH-700 may launch you like a rocket, but the huge gap is going to lug your engine and drop RPMs, hurting performance. The TH-200 has a more favorable gear separation then the TH-700, but the TH-400 still has a slight edge.

Now to address the flaw in my argument that I am sure many of you are thinking about. The TH-400 does not have an overdrive gear and if you don’t run an overdrive then how can you possibly expect to have a respectable freeway cruising RPM?

The solution to this is easy, run a taller rearend gear. I argue that the many hotrods rarely, if ever, see the drag strip and spend a lot more of their time on the road. So why then do we put in a low rearend gear that makes freeway driving unpleasant and limits out terminal velocity to 115 miles per hour. An overdrive transmission will make up for our low rear gearing, but this introduces several problems.

  1. Overdrive was never intended to be an acceleration gear, which it is being forced to become if you are running a deep rearend.
  2. High drive shaft speeds

Running a 4.11 gear with a TH-700 sounds like a good idea until you consider that with a 275/40R17 tire at 100 mph your drive shaft is spinning at somewhere in the neighborhood of 5383 RPM for comparison a TH-400 with the same tire and a 3.08 rearend gearing will turn 4034 RPM. The same comparison at 150 mph yields 8075 for the overdrive versus 6051 for the TH-400. Spinning the drive shaft that fast takes horsepower and can have other problems like magnifying the effects of driveline alignment problems, drive shaft imbalance, and driveline component wear.

With the right setup, a switch-pitch TH-400 provides a viable alternative to the modern overdrive.

Controlling the converter:
There is a multitude of possible methods for controlling when and how the converter changes from high to low stall. Use a delay box to have the converter go to low stall after you leave the starting line. An RPM switch could have the converter lock up once your car is into its power band. Wiring a relay to the brake switch would allow you to put the converter in high stall for stoplights in a car with a radical camshaft. A simple switch can be used to allow full driver control of the system. For most those who want to have the most control of their driving experience this probably the best option. [article on wiring a switch pitch transmission]

Where do I get my hands on a switch pitch TH-400?
I purchased the unit in my 1966 Malibu from PAE Enterprises in Texas. They offer both Chevy and BOP cases for a resonable price. PAE also sells conversion kits so those of you that already have a TH-400 are in luck. PAE’s contact information can be found in the sources section of this article.

Sources:
How to Work with and Modify the Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 Transmission
by Ron Sessions
ISBN: 0-87938-267-8

P.A.E Enterprises, Inc.
4401 Turf Rd. Bldg E
El Paso, TX. 79938
915.855.6009
915.857.4727 -> Tech Line 8-10am and 4-5pm MST M-F
www.paeenterprises.com

First Generation Camaro Subframe

Wednesday, November 23rd, 2005

camaro subframe

Just what it looks like, a diagram of the factory subframe from a 1967-1969 Chevrolet Camaro.

For more information on First Generation Camaro Suspension take a look at Pozzi Racing.

Delta Current Control Module

Saturday, November 19th, 2005

Looking to replace your belt driven engine fan with an electric fan in order to free up some horsepower? Do not underestimate the importance of having your electric fans properly wired and controlled. A wonderful product that will drastically simplify the process is the Delta Current Control Module.

I recently replaced a 7-blade thermal clutch fan on my 1966 Malibu with a dual 13″ Derale setup. The dual fans draw a massive 50 amps when turned on, but move an impressive 4000 CFM of air. Your car does not always need 4000 CFM of airflow in fact often it will need little to no fan assistance to stay within operating temperature. This is where a fan controller comes into play.

A typical electric fan install consists of a thermal switch that operates a relay. The relay is in turn connected to the fan. Often the thermal switch will turn the fan on at one temperature, for example 210 degrees and off at another, say 175 degrees. The problem with this sort of setup is that your engine temperature is constantly fluctuating.

The Delta Current Control Module operates by varying fan speed to maintain engine temperature at a desired level. The unit is a full, self-contained system. It takes the place of a thermal switch, relay, fuse, manual override switch, air conditioning switch, etc. [Read my article on the Install of a DCC unit in my 1966 Chevelle.]

I have been running a DCC unit on my car for the past week and once car is warmed up the temperature gauge rarely moves at all. This includes a 100-mile freeway drive, multiple drive-thru lines, a trip to the drag strip at LACR and a 30-minute driveway idle. The switch from mechanical to electric fans has also freed up a noticeable amount of power.

Features:

  1. Turns on fan only when needed
  2. 100% Self Contained, compact Unit
  3. Adjustable Target Temperature (148, 158, 166, 173, 180, 187, 194, 202, 212)
  4. Maintains engine Temperature within a tight heat range
  5. Has provision for A/C activation and use with under drive pulleys
  6. Choice of two types of thermal probe
  7. Frees up horsepower (verified by my faster quarter miles times)
  8. Can also be used to control an electric water pump.

Verdict:

A no headaches solution to electric fan control. The DCC unit is an elegant solution that works as advertised.

Sources:

Delta Current Control
www.dccontrol.com

‘66 Redux at LACR

Thursday, November 17th, 2005

Driftlive joins the Hot Rod Homepage Network

Saturday, November 5th, 2005

The drifting scene is growing by leaps and bounds here in the United States. After an initial demo at Irwindale in 2003 drew record crowds and two years of Formula D competition, drifting has a large and growing following.

I have decided to add a Drift only site to the Hot Rod Homepage Network after attending the last several events of the 2005 Formula D season as well as numerous DriftDay and JustDrift events. The DriftLive site is very much “under construction,” but will be at 100% by the opening of the 2006 season in Long Beach, CA on April 2nd.

Give Drift Live a look.

Not into drifting?
Take a look at the Team Falken 1969 Camaro ripping it up.

Snake Oil that Worked: Lucas Transmission Fix

Monday, October 31st, 2005

While not directly Hot Rod related I figured that it merited a mention here on the site. My daily driver is a 1990 Toyota Corolla with an automatic 3-speed transmission. Over the course of the last 2 tanks of gas I have been experiencing transmission slippage that has greatly reduced my fuel mileage. This is a major problem considering that good fuel mileage is all that the Corolla has going for it. What do I do?

I spent some time with google looking up prices for transmission rebuild kits as well as possible common issues with the Corolla transmissions. My search proved helpful, but not in the way that I anticipated.

After a flurry of different websites offering rebuilds and replacements I came across the Lucas Oil homepage. I was brought to the site be a customer testimonial from John Quinn of Springfield, Illinois that stated:

I was driving down the street and the transmission starts slipping. Can’t get it past 10mph and then transmission just whines. Had it towed to shop and started looking for used trany. Saw your ad on the internet and tried a bottle. Not only did it drive without slipping, I’m getting about 40 extra miles per fill up at the gas station. Thanks a million.

Normally I do not fall for “testimonials” on a manufactures website, but at this point I am desperate. I simply cannot justify putting a new transmission into a car that I bough for $1000, so this morning I picked up a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix from the local AutoZone. It set me back around $10.

The back of the bottle states “Results are Usually Immediate” so as soon as I exited the store I popped the hood on the trusty old Corolla and added half a bottle to the transmission via the dipstick tube. As directed by the Transmission Fix bottle I added the fluid with the engine warmed up and running.

I let the car sit and idle for a few minutes while I cleaned up, then took her for a road test.

Initial Impression:
Before I had even exited the parking lot I could tell the difference. The transmission was noticeably smoother on shifts and I could no longer perceive any slippage. So far this stuff is working.

Long Term Results:
Nothing yet, but as I get some more time with the car I will update this article.

Sources:
Lucas Oil Products
302 North Sheridan Street
Corona, CA 92880-2067
951.270.0154
www.lucasoil.com